Further
The Further Guide to Venice
I spent 3 days, in winter, off season. Here’s the beginning of the story by Pavia Rosati.
At the risk of telling you something you already know, you won’t be the only one here. You’ll be joining 60,000 visitors on a busy day, a number that only keeps climbing despite civic efforts to curb it. But here’s a little counterbalancing good news: It’s easy to give the crowds the slip.
You just have to get lost.
When everyone zigs, you need to zag. Turn right instead of left, head down a street that looks like a dead end but leads over a bridge, go straight through a piazzetta, turn right, and keep going along the calle.
See how quiet everything got? How it feels like you’re the only one in the city, even though you’re only five minutes from the throng you left behind?
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Here’s the beginning of the story on Trieste, written by Laura Lazzaroni.
On my desk in Rome is a diamond-hard fossil of compacted soil that I’ve been using as a paperweight. It’s my own piece of ponca, the stratified marl-and-sandstone composite that forms much of the terrain of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. It’s also a handy metaphor for the region itself: layers upon layers of cultural influences, violently fused together by history’s tectonic shifts.
From this mineral-rich land come some of Italy’s most beautiful, delicious, and elegant things. That’s why I’ve been returning to this bucolic corner again and again for more than a decade—and why you, perhaps, should be coming here too.
Friuli is the unsung hero of the Italian Northeast, and the very last bit of country you encounter as you drive from Venice toward Slovenia. It’s as porous as any frontier region, with a long connection to the lands across the border...
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